Jewels & Jewelry

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“… flowers were one of the most popular themes in European jewelry for most of the second half of the century, and magnificent bouquet bodice ornaments were made–sometimes up to 20 centimeters (8 inches) in length. Although only a few of these most extravagant jewels have survived, contemporary designs show that they were composed of an asymmetrical arrangement of different flowers and that their stems were usually tied with a loose ribbon bow. The petals might either be of colored gemstones, or, for softer pastel shades, brilliant-cut diamonds were backed with colored foils transforming them into delicate pinks, yellows and greens. The stems and foliage were often in enamel, or more lavishly in emeralds. Larger flower heads might be set on springs so that they trembled and glitter more brightly as the wearer moved, and sometimes jeweled insects were made to hover above the flowers. Several splendid bouquets have survived in Russian collections, but otherwise they may be glimpsed only obliquely… garlands of jeweled flowers wrapped round with ribbons and bows were much used for necklaces, while asymmetrical sprigs or aigrettes would be pinned into the extravagant padded hair styles. Jewelled flowers twined around brooches, buckles, dress clips, earrings and miniature frames, while the style was captured in miniature by the giardinetti, or ‘little garden’ rings, where tiny blossoms were arranged with rococo asymmetry in baskets, vases and pots,”

-Clare Phillips, Jewels & Jewelry

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FactsSharon KhazzamComment